The best way to penetrate the wall of Malibu mansions for a peek at the ocean is down the long winding path and stairways of El Matador State Beach. A series of coves, caves, and rock outcroppings line the shore where at low tide you can walk miles past oblivious couples, nude sunbathers, and the occasional seal pup on a jetty. Look up at the cliffs for a glimpse of the secluded beach houses on Encinal Bluffs. The hike back to your car will make your feet tranquil--or at least ready to hit Malibu Yogurt, one of the few democratic places in town where even celebs have to wait in line.