Caviarteria has been preaching the fish-roe gospel for 50 years, selling and serving a vast display of Caspian and American caviars, foie gras, and other high-end specialty items. The initial location, in midtown Manhattan, is still going strong, minus the décor, which is, uh, rather no-frills. But do darkish surroundings and dusty mirrors really matter when you're eating Ultra, a spectacularly buttery and not-at-all salty variety of Beluga? If so, check out the stylish--if slightly snooty--second caviar/champagne lounge in Soho. And on the non-fish egg front, the Scottish Smoked Salmon Tenderloin (a.k.a. the Czar Cut) and the hand-massaged American Kobe beef carpaccio will have you begging for more.