Faster than you can say foie gras, another French bistro has opened but few can compare to old favorite, Pastis--made famous by SJP and her gal pals in SATC. You can't go wrong with the traditional bistro fare, from frisee lardons to steak frites bearnaise. Not surprisingly, the 40 or so wines offered are just as solidly French as the food. Nothing's lost by opting out of dessert and fast-forwarding to an aperitif or cocktail made with the restaurant's namesake, southern France's anise-flavored liqueur.