Tourists just don't walk into L'Osteria del Forno. This north beach treasure, decked with plants and a small-town European feel, features some of the most authentic Northern Italian food in town. For one thing, they serve their wine in water glasses--true paisano chic. From the cold-vinegared cipolline onions (zing!) to the delicate thin-crust pizzas, L'Osteria del Forno is all about subtlety. A few of the creamier casseroles will satisfy any hearty appetite. But since portions are small and prices are reasonable, your waist and wallet will both have room for dessert and espresso.