If you look just below the freeway where Mission meets Duboce, you might catch a glimpse of this L-shaped corner room, laced with curtains and shining copper pans. Slide into a cozy banquette seat and watch the hip young sous chef and two waiters gracefully bob about the room. They bear plates of lovely California organic cuisine with deep sauces, fresh greens, and knowing looks. There is no better insider bistro than this, with its forward thinking, simple cuisine, and quiet corner on the hip market.