Click HERE for Day Seven Fashion Photo Slideshow
*Photos by Patrick Butler

Another day, another fashion show. Or ten. There were a lot of major and minor designers showing Thursday (from Vera Wang and Calvin Klein to up-and-comers such as Chris Han and Lyn Devon). The rain had subsided (yea!), the humidity had broken (double yea!) so the fashion flock was back out en masse in their towering Louboutin booties and fur, fur, fur! (Seriously, I think I've seen more fur this week than I have, well, ever.)

VERA DOES VAN DONGEN

Citing Dutch portraitist Kees van Dongen as her inspiration, Vera Wang went out one of the spectacular collections of the week (and possibly her finest to date), by turns funky, elegant - and always, always, unmistakably Vera. Sculpted yellow embroidered brocade jackets topped slouchy jersey tees and hip-ruched skirts. Pop Art-bright floral bustle back tunics were paired with slim hammered satin leggings. And slouchy cashmere cardigans showed up atop nubby wool skirts and bejeweled bodice "pompadour" dress and satin pajama pants - just the thing for a modern day Marie Antoinette. And, as always, thanks to the designer's forgiving cuts, Wang fans can have their cake and eat it, too.

PHI, FI, FO, FUM I SMELL THE SCENT OF BOREDOM!

At Phi, meanwhile, designer Andreas Melbostad sent out a collection that referenced the work of Helmut Newton - or "decadence reinterpreted," as the designer put it in his show notes - vis-a-vis skintight lace dresses with red or neon girdle-like underwear peeking through (think: Betty Grable-meets-Bettie Page), along with polka dot minis with more VPL (actually, it was visible everything) and fur-trimmed parkas that hewed to the punky side of the street. Unfortunately, Melbostad riffed on variations of these same three looks - over and over and over - for the duration of the show, so by the time the last of the 31 looks came out, I had a terrible case of deja vu. The best part of the presentation, in fact, came at the end, when a horde of about 100 fashionistas squeezed into the 16th floor freight elevator and a cage descended upon them before the doors closed, making them look for all the world like a very well dressed herd of cattle waiting to be led to slaughter. "Now that's a Helmut Lang moment!" observed an editor friend.

ANARCHY IN THE US

Phi isn't the only label paying homage to the '70s and '80s punk/new wave movement. Thakoon sent out graffiti print, Westwood-inspired tartan pieces earlier in the week, Alexander Wang's entire left-of-center evening wear collection was a tribute to all things ripped, shredded and deconstructed ("embrace the flaws!" he told me), Karen Walker riffed on Edwardian punks, and Marc by Marc Jacobs was awash with bright plaid silver zippered shifts, neon pink buckle boots, and funky striped sweaters.

FRANCISCO COSTA'S FEELING ORDERLY

The designer based his fall collection on the idea of order ("as in sharp, strong," he told me). The jumping off point for this ultra-sleek, ultra-modern outing was, interestingly, a fabric travel valet from the 19th Century, a photo of which ran in WWD earlier this week. "That's a men's valet from a turn-of-the-century boat trunk- somebody's trunk," Costa told me backstage post-show. "So that kept things in order, you know? You have your shoes, your clothes. So that's the point that's been brought further [in this collection]. It's very precise men's tailoring for women." So there you have it. From inspiration to execution, in a nutshell. Of course, the designer also showed several razor cut geometric coats that flapped open in the front like a surgical incision (revealing the glittery pieces beneath). So maybe there's also a more current inspiration (Nip/Tuck or CSI, say) at work here, too.

MIRROR, MIRROR ON THE WALL WHO'S THE MOST FABULOUS OF THEM ALL?

Mini runway trend: Mirrored backdrops, as seen at the 3.1 Phillip Lim show Wednesday and the Vera Wang show today. Lim's show was all about "fleeting glances," and the paneled mirrored backdrop reinforced the idea of strangers glimpsing one another in passing, like stylish ships in the night. At Wang, the mirrored backdrop served a more practical purpose. Many of the ensembles had really interesting back details -peplums, bustles, beaded chiffon swags, gowns that tied behind the knee - so the mirrors allowed the audience to really see all the lavish details, both coming and going. Plus, it made for a pretty sweet photo effect.

INVITE OF THE DAY

Speaking of mirrors, Zac Posen's invite took the form of a bevel-edged mirror. Given this, I was expecting a collection that riffed on narcissism, maybe, or paid tribute to the coke-fueled glamour of Scarface or Casino. Wrong. Posen's fall collection was inspired by cartoony heroines like Minnie Mouse and Olive Oil as seen through the prism of (I smell a trend!) Helmut Newton. Translation: frilly, Betty Boop crinolines, exposed garter belts and trompe-l'oeil tuxedo dresses. "I think humor is important in fashion," said Posen.

MODEL DOWN!

Posen sent model Karen Elson out in a big one-shouldered tulle ball gown at the finale of his show but, unfortunately, she tripped just as she hit the runway, landing with a thud on her knees. The audience gasped, but Elson burst out laughing and couldn't stop. Ever the trooper, Elson was helped to her feet by passing model Olga Sherer and Sean "P. Diddy" Combs (who was sitting nearby) and continued her walk to the photo pit, where she gave the photographer's a comical "what can you?" shrug - all the while grinning from ear to ear. The audience responded with a huge cheer, and gave her a spontaneous standing ovation as she made her way back up the catwalk.

Click HERE for Day Six Fashion Photo Slideshow
*Photos by Patrick Butler

Wednesday was quite light, as Fashion Week goes. I began the day at Michael Kors and took in 3.1 Phillip Lim and Derek Lam, as well. I was supposed to hit Zero + Maria Cornejo, as well, but unfortunately the traffic and my taxi did not cooperate and I missed making it to the East Village in time for the show, which sucks as she’s one of my favorite NY designers. But even though I only went to three shows, there was still plenty of action to be found.

I’M READY FOR MY CLOSE-UP, MR. DE KORS

Michael Kors channeled the retro cinematic glamour of “Mad Men” and Hitchcock in his really pretty fall ’08 collection (think: floral hourglass cocktail dresses, nubby fur collared coats tossed over a pencil skirt and sweater, boxy grey suits for the guys- worn with fedoras and thick black glasses, no less- and sexy secretary looks galore). Even the accessories- small-ish frame handbags and pointy satin stilettos- conjured the 1960s. But the real Hollywood drama occurred in Kors’ front row, for sitting directly across the aisle from yours truly was Simon Doonan, Roshumba Williams, Angie Harmon, Pharrel Williams, Eva Longoria and Robert Verdi. Also in attendance: Sigourney Weaver, Debra Messing, Ellen Pompeo, Eric Dane, Natasha Richardson, Candace Bushnell and Raquel Welch, whose arrival caused a paparazzi meltdown. Seriously, I thought the photographer’s cameras were going to burst into flames, the air was so hot with excitement. We should all look so good at 67.

A MOMENT WITH AGGY

I went backstage to congratulate Kors and ran smack into model Agyness Deyn (Aggy to her friends), who had just finished changing out of her lady-like “North by Northwest” runway garb and back into her punk rock street clothes. So what did she think of Kors glamazon collection? “It was gorgeous, wasn’t it?” she replied while pulling on her boots. It was. And which NY shows did she most enjoy working so far? “I really like walking in this show,” she said, “because Michael’s like, ‘Smile, be happy, go out and flirt!’ Which I’m really crap at, but I have a go [she pulled a silly sexy-pouty face]. And Michael’s so nice. So that’s great. And he always plays really good music.” Indeed he does. And today’s soundtrack (Queen, Madonna, Amy Winehouse) was no exception.

INVITES OF THE DAY

There were actually two cool invites today. The first was from Y and Kei, who embossed their “Water the Earth” show details on a little square pouch- clear plastic on the back, textured linen on the front- into which had been sewn a single white feather. Phillip Lim, meanwhile, made his Bryant Park debut this afternoon and announced his presentation via a beribboned ivory envelope that opened to reveal a traditional paper invite tucked inside a white hanky monogrammed with the designer’s initials. “The show was titled ‘Silent Volumes’ and it was about, let’s take a step back and just [focus on] images, like the people you pass everyday [and] you take a glance and never speak yet you always remember,” he told me backstage after the show, which he described as “power dressing” from a woman’s point of view (though he showed men’s clothes, too). “I thought about this boy, this girl, even down to the invites. They use the handkerchief and rewash it, you know what I mean? It’s steeped in tradition. I felt like it was a subversive aristocracy.” Weeell, yes, I would have to agree that using a hankie and then throwing it- steeped in tradition and you-know-what- into the wash with the rest of your clothes is a bit subversive, to be sure (especially when you consider that disposable tissues were invented because handkerchiefs are so unsanitary). Cute idea for an invite, but I won’t be using my PL hanky as anything but a pocket square. Or maybe I can start using it to flag down taxis, like the heroine in an old timey movie. (“Oh, livery driver!”)

BFFS FOREVER

Showing in the Promenade at Bryant Park instead of an off-site venue had an unexpected benefit for Phillip Lim, besides being less stressful (“It’s so much easier to show here!” he exclaimed after the show). It also meant that he was able to sneak into his best friend, Richard Chai’s show, which took place an hour before his in the space next door (there are three venue spaces in the IMG tent: the Tent, the Promenade and the Salon). “He would kill me if I wasn’t here, and I don’t want to die an early death,” Lim was overheard telling WWD. Lim even had time to run backstage to congratulate his pal before returning next door to finish prepping his presentation. And Chai, of course, was seated front-row-center at Lim’s show, too. Awww.

LEIGH LEZARK, PART DEUX

I saw MisShapes’ Leigh Lezark again, this time at Lim’s 4pm show, and stopped by to say hi. Naturally, I had to ask the diminutive DJ what brought her to show. “I love Phillip Lim. He always makes clothes that fit so well. Some designers, their clothes are just kind of big. They don’t fit or flow well. But he’s always...every single piece is great. I’ve never worn a bad Phillip Lim piece,” she said. The MisShapes hadn’t done the music for Lim’s show, but I was curious as to what went into the production process when the DJ trio does the soundtrack for runway. “Well, we collaborate with the designer beforehand and we get to see all looks so we know what kind of music would complement the clothes,” she explained. “At Costello Tagliapietra, they already knew exactly what they wanted cause they love Joy Division and stuff like that. So they gave us a list- they even gave us some bands we didn’t know. And then we went back and forth and put it together, gave them a rough playlist and rough edit and they told us what they thought and we reworked it and then: Go!” Interesting. So how long does that process usually take? “A day,” she replied. “It’s not very long. If we have a checklist it’s very, very easy.” She also confided the MisShapes are doing the Cynthia Rowley and Hugo Boss shows in New York and Henry Holland Christopher Kane in London (along with other, TBD stops in Milan and Paris). So how does she recover after Fashion Week? “I sleep!” she laughed.

DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME, KIDS

The inspiration for Derek Lam’s fall ’08 collection may have been Isak Dinesen (aka, Baroness Karen von Blixen, the author of “Out of Africa”), but I find it hard to imagine the Swedish native favored mustard yellow eyeshadow and raspberry pink lips, as worn by the models in this show, which played upon the idea of duality and contrasts. Obviously, this was not a literal interpretation of Blixen’s look or life (nor should it be). But while the effect looked super-cool on the runway, I’d advise you to think twice before trying it yourself.

SWAG ALERT

Today’s best swag came from the aforementioned Derek Lam show and was, fittingly, a plastic zip-top bag filled with Kiehl’s products, including Centella Skin-Calming Facial Cleanser, Recovery Skin Salve and Line-Reducing Eye-Brightening Concentrate. Just the thing to remove all traces of, say, mustard yellow eye shadow and raspberry pink lipstick.

Click HERE for Day Five Fashion Photo Slideshow
*Photos by Patrick Butler
Man, do my feet hurt. Seriously. I know everyone thinks Fashion Week is all fabulous glamour, all the time- and there are certainly parts of it that fall into that category (watching the Rodarte show yesterday certainly qualifies)- but for those of us not blessed with a car and driver, running from show to show to show to show, with locations that range from grungy loft spaces in the furthest most reaches of Chelsea on the West side of the city to beautifully appointed churches or armories on the Upper East Side (with 15 minutes allotted between shows to get from one to the other), gets really old, really fast. There is a lot of running around being done, most of on foot or via subway and taxi- or some combination thereof- and killer footwear just doesn’t fit the bill. So no more designer platform booties for me, I’m afraid. It’s back to my trusty motorcycle boots or wing-tips for the rest of the week. I’ll still look chic, but I’ll also be comfy! (And given the forecast, which calls for rain and snow the remainder of the week - fun! - I will hopefully be dry, as well.)

OK, rant over. Here’s what went down around town on Tuesday, which was a relatively light day of shows for me (Rodarte, Karen Walker, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Narciso). I was supposed to hit the Y-3/Yohji Yamamoto and Prada store parties last night, as well, but I just couldn’t muster up the energy. You’ll forgive me won’t you?

GOODY, GOODY, GOODY

Tuesday wasn’t all bad, as in addition to seeing some wonderful fashion, I got some pretty fab swag to make up for the barking dogs and transportation woes. Rodarte’s mystical, magical collection was based on Japanese horror films and sponsored by Lexus Hybrid, and their goody bag contained a silvery-grey handcrafted scarf (made in collaboration with Lexus Hybrid Living) and a DVD of “Ugetsu,” a Japanese suspense-love story by acclaimed filmmaker, Kenji Mizoguchi. Karen Walker, meanwhile, gifted guests at her Edwardian Punk-themed collection with an ivory hanky whose lace doily was embellished with the show’s mascot (a little pigtailed girl carrying a sack on a stick, hobo-style), along with a stained glass fly pin, which mirrored the colors seen on her runway.

OLD FRIENDS, NEW LIVES

Speaking of Walker, while I was waiting for the show to start I read over the program notes and noticed that Rolando Beauchamp of Bumble & Bumble had done the hair. It took me about 30 seconds to realize his name sounded really familiar because we worked together as sales clerks as a now-defunct clothing store in Soho when we were both in our teens. Now, once you’ve covered the industry for a while, Fashion Week is like a reunion of sorts, as you bump into a lot of people you only see in February and September. But bumping into someone you haven’t seen in 20 or 30 years? Not so much. Naturally, I had to go backstage to say hello. I ran down the stairs to the hair and makeup room, only to be told Rolando had just gone upstairs, where the models were getting dressed and doing their final pre-show preparations. I went back upstairs and spotted him leaning against a railing talking to a colleague. As I approached, he turned to me and exclaimed, “I know you! I just saw you go down the stairs and said to my friend, ‘I know that woman! I don’t know from where, but I know it was a long, long time ago and she is not a hair stylist.’” I re-introduced myself and Rolando said, “Of course! We worked together at Diddington’s! My God, that was like another life.” It really was. And now he’s a bigwig hair stylist and I’m a fashion journalist covering the shows he works. What are the odds?

INVITE OF THE DAY

Another day, another cute invite. Tuesday’s winner: the old-fashioned wheel from Shipley & Halmos (the new line founded by ex-Trovata duo Jeff Shipley and Sam Halmos, who left that label shortly after winning the CFDA to do their own thing). Announcing the “Fall 2008 offering of some clothing & things crafted with hand, health and heart,” the inner wheel of the invite revolves so that you can see the pertinent deets (show date and time, location, sponsor) in a window cut out on the front. Clever, that.

EMERGING TREND: FUNKY, FUZZY KNITS

Along with the bold, bright colors I told you about yesterday, another trend that’s shaping up to be big for fall are mohair or angora sweaters (the really hairy ones from the ‘50s and ‘60s you see in vintage shops). These fuzzy bunnies turned up at Lela Rose (fashioned from loops of sequin-trimmed yarn), at Thakoon (on an uber-cool blue ombre suit, raspberry pea coat and super plush orange plaid topper) while Doo.Ri used the furry stuff on an off-the-shoulder emerald sweater and a deeply scooped sweater dress. Rodarte, meanwhile, sent out some of funky-chic sweaters and dresses made using different weight and color yarns knit with a drop stitch, so the colors and texture changed from thick and thin throughout. They were, in a word, sublime.

CELEBRITY SKIN

Where to begin? Tuesday was knee-deep in celebs, from the front row of Rodarte, which boasted Libertine designer Johnson Hartig, Vincent Gallo, Christian Louboutin, Mary Alice Stephenson and Sonic Youth’s Kim Gordon to Fergie, Rachel Zoe and photographers Terry Richardson and Juergen Teller at Marc by Marc. And Amy Adams turned up in the front row at Narciso, as did Jerry and Jessica Seinfeld, Aerin Lauder and Ruben and Isabel Toledo. Matthew Williamson reeled in Joy Bryant, Rihanna, Brittany Murphy and Leigh Lezark, while J. Mendel attracted the likes of Amy Smart, Lipstick Jungle lovelies Kim Raver and Brooke Shields, Tinsley Mortimer. And, last but not least, who did I spy with my little eye at Badgley Mischka? Jaime King and Philip Bloch.

GO INCOGNITO IN STYLE

Another giveaway worth mentioning, if only because it made me laugh out loud: the little look book for Karen Walker's 08/08 eyewear collection. Dubbed "Masters of Disguise," the 23-page booklet features wonderfully goofy photos of people wearing Walker's shades, along with cheap-looking fright wigs (for the ladies) and ridiculously fake beards and mustaches (for the guys) in order to disguise their identity and, one presumes, avoid the paparazzi. It is hi-larious and made everyone else in the front row wonder what the hell was wrong with me, as I took one look and couldn't stop laughing. (What can I say? I'm a big fan of silly.) Thanks, Karen. It was a much-needed laughternoon break, as my Splendora sisters would say.

RACHEL, FROM A TO ZOE

I sat across from celeb stylist Rachel Zoe at Marc by Marc and hopped over pre-show to get the dirt on Monday’s Halston show (which she didn’t attend, even though she is on the advisory board, causing some in the industry to speculate that she’d been downsized or even fired from the newly relaunched brand). “I wasn’t there [at the Halston show],” she said when asked what she thought of the collection. “I saw the sketches and I looked at the collection last night but I don’t really want to talk about it. I’m a shareholder and I am an advisor on the advisory board but this is Marco’s ride. He’s the designer and the creative director so it’s his show and I’m just taking a backseat. But I thought it was beautiful. I think it’s really clothes you want to wear, you know?” I do. So what else was she looking forward to seeing this week? “Anything Marc does I look forward to. It’s always one of the most exciting reasons to be in New York. He’s one of my closest friends and he’s brilliant and such an innovator. Whatever he does is it. You know he’s gonna surprise you. And what else has she liked? “Oscar de la Renta!” she exclaimed. “I died, I almost fell on the runway it was so amazing. So beautiful. And I went up to see it today, again. It was like...he’s just heaven. Just luxury at its finest and New York fashion at its finest. He’s just all about women being beautiful and being luxurious. He’s the classiest, chicest man. I just love him so much. It’s like you meet him and you want to wear his clothes that much more, you know? I thought J. Mendel and Peter Som were beautiful, as well. I haven’t gone, unfortunately, to that many shows because I have clients in town. Sadly, I couldn’t make it to Rodarte this morning - I had a fitting - and it really sucked to miss it because I’m a huge fan and I love those girls and I think they’re brilliant. But, sadly, due to my work schedule I’m missing a lot of stuff that I’d like to see. It’s horrible. It’s one of those things where I’m working, I’m in a meeting, I’m in an interview, a fitting - whatever - and all of a sudden I’m like [pretends to look at her watch and notice the time], ‘I’m literally sitting here and missing the show.’ It’s painful. But there’s been a lot of really nice stuff this season. So I’m excited.”

MAN THE TOLEDOS! FULL SPEED AHEAD!

“I’m a big fan,” said designer Isabel Toledo when I asked what had brought her out to the Narciso Rodriguez show Tuesday night, which she attended with her charming hubby, fashion illustrator Ruben Toledo. “A big fan of Narciso. I gotta see what he’s thinking. I gotta get in that brain! He’s amazing so I’m really looking forward to the show. And I’m looking forward to seeing the shoes he did on with Edmundo Castillo - it’s a great collaboration and I’m happy to be here.” So what, in particular, about Narciso’s clothes does Toledo love? “How he draws with the seams,” she replied. “I love how he draws with those seams. You really understand the dresses; you feel them. They’re very sexy. You feel beautiful in them. I know cause I’ve worn them!” We continued chatting, talking about what she’s been up to since Jones Apparel Group decided to shutter the Anne Klein Collection (which Toledo had been designing) after just two seasons, but our convo was off-the-record. Sorry, fellow fashion fanatics, but I can’t always dish and tell. Tomorrow is another story...

Click HERE For Day Four Fashion Photo Slideshow
*Photos by Patrick Butler

INVITE OF THE DAY

I had to miss Betsey Johnson’s show to attend the debut of Halston (which was recently bought by Miramax chief Harvey Weinstein and Jimmy Choo’s Tamara Mellon, among others, and is being relaunched with the help of stylist to the stars Rachel Zoe and former Versace/Dolce & Gabbana alum, Marco Zanini, as designer), but I still have to give it up for Betsey’s invite, which came in the form of an old-school 45 rpm record with a drawing of a beanik chick on the vinyl. What better way to announce Johnson’s Fall 2008 Beat Chick collection, which pays homage to her best designs from the past 40 years. Happy anniversary, Betsey!!! See you next season!

FRIENDS IN HIGH PLACES

Speaking of Halston, after the show (which I loved), I attempted to go backstage to get a quote from Marco Zanini for my VOGUE.COM review, only to be told by a security guard that you could only go backstage if you called ahead and had it pre-arranged. Say what...?! (Typically, editors and buyers attending any designer’s show are welcome to come backstage afterward to say hello, offer their congrats and obligatory air kisses, and get a minute to interview the designer, if need be.) This was a first. I was standing there wondering what the hell to do when my pal Nina Garcia, of Elle and Project Runway fame, materialized at my elbow with her boss, Gilles Bensimon, in tow. “Hello,” she said to the security guard, as she attempted to pass. He body blocked her and repeated what he’d just told me about needing to have called ahead, yada yada yada. “What?!” said Nina. “Call who to arrange what?” She looked at me for an explanation and I just shrugged. Just then, a PR girl came out from behind the curtain and saw Nina. “Oh, she can come in,” she said to the guard as she ushered Gilles and Nina backstage. Ms. Garcia, being the class act she is, grabbed my arm and pulled me along so I could get in, too. Thanks, Nina. I owe you one!

COCO ROCHA WEIGHS IN ON HALSTON

Canadian model Coco Rocha is one of my favorite runway girls. That nonchalant walk. That great sour puss. I caught up with the 19-year-old Canadian on the street outside Halston to ask what it was like to walk in the debut show of the relaunch of this iconic label. “I didn’t know it was so historical until we were putting on the clothes and they said that it was most famous brand in the 70s,” said the very polite - and very tall - Rocha. “It’s actually quite interesting to think that it’s such a legendary brand and that it was popular before I was even born (laughs). I had a cute number on; it kind of reminded me of dance clothing. It was very soft colors - like what your dance teacher would wear.” She would know, having been a champion Irish dancer before being discovered by a modeling agent at a...wait for it...Irish dance competition when she was 14 (hence the reason she did a jig down Jean Paul Gaultier’s runway last season). “It was gorgeous!” she concluded.

EMERGING TRENDS: COLOR ME HAPPY

Color has been a big story at many shows this week. Between the bright red tweeds at Rachel Roy, the deep teal and amethyst dresses at Costello Tagliapietra, the cobalt blouses at ThreeAsFour, the harlequin sequined smocks at Sass & Bide, the wonderfully riotous color combinations at Tracy Reese and the neon plaids at Y-3, I think I’ve seen every shade of the rainbow on the runway. And that’s not even counting the gold and cardinal anoraks at Lela Rose, the to-the-manor-born patchwork blouses at Carolina Herrera and the red sequined numbers at Oscar. At Proenza Schouler yesterday, Jack and Lazaro sent out some crazy clashing colors (think: a canary yellow mini with bright purple tights and red suede platform pumps). And Thakoon’s fall collection contained just one black look - everything else was awash in pink roses, red-white-and-black lumberjack plaid or punky tartan. Looks like we’re in for a blindingly bright fall.

REGINA SPEKTOR SINGS WITH STYLE

Oscar de la Renta showed his collection, as he has the past few seasons, in a decommissioned church on Park Avenue. But this time around, his ladylike looks came out to a somewhat unconventional soundtrack: The music of anti-folk singer Regina Spektor, who performed live while the models walked, first playing a grand piano and then accompanied by a guy doing beat box. I tracked her down post-show to get the skinny. “Oh my God. I was very nervous, I’m still kind of shaking,” said the diminutive redhead as we stood in a little room off the side of the stage. “I’ve never done anything like this. I was so terrified beforehand but Mr. de la Renta is so amazing. He’s got such poise yet without any pretension; he’s so open and kind that it’s just really great to be in his presence. Every time he would come by I would relax just a little bit for a second and then it would kick back in.” So how did they choose which two songs she performed during the show? “Actually, Oscar listened to the record with the music producer, Michel, and his assistants and they picked the more fast-paced songs so the models could walk to them.” She laughed. “They tried to collage them together and not run too long but it was sort of nerve-wracking because by the end I thought maybe I ran too short but we just kept going around and around until all the models walked out.” I told her I thought it was an amazing East Village-meets-Upper East Side counterpart to the clothes and she beamed.

A CHAT WITH CARINE ROITFELD

So as anyone who works in the industry or reads The Daily knows, two of fashion’s biggest guns, editorially speaking, are American Vogue’s Anna Wintour and French Vogue’s Carine Roitfeld. There was a relatively long (40-45 minute) wait for the Proenza Schouler show to start, so I wandered the aisle of the Park Avenue Armory - which had been outfitted with two rows of benches about a quarter-mile long - in search of a style scoop. Thankfully, Roitfeld (aka, the woman who helped Tom Ford reinvent Gucci) was just a few seats away, so it didn’t take me long to find one. “No, no boys, don’t leave me on my own,” she joked to two male colleagues who stepped aside when they saw me approach with a tape recorder in hand. “I’m not that scary, am I?” I asked. “No, you’re not.” laughed Roitfeld. I asked her what the biggest difference is between New York and Paris Fashion Weeks. “In Paris I have my proper wardrobe so I have no problems if it’s snowing or sunshine. I’m ready for any occasion. In New York it’s more difficult,” she replied. “I’m joking,” she laughed. So is there a big difference between the fashion she sees on the runway here and there? “Yes, very different.” How so? “I think it’s less ummm...I don’t want to be [insulting]... [America] is a huge market but because it’s huge it has to be less creative. So sometimes you find someone very nice; I’m expecting a lot of Proenza Schouler. But here, for zees people, it’s true that a lot of shows are just for selling the collection, to be frank. And the week is so long - almost 10 days this season with the men’s shows! - and because I’m working on a men’s magazine, too, we have to look at men’s shows.” And what was she looking forward to seeing in New York? “I’m looking forward to [Proenza] tonight and I liked Thom Browne this morning,” she said. “I really loved it. It was burlesque and was really amazing. Really good. And, of course, Marc. And Rodarte, I like a lot. And I missed, who’s this guy...something Saunders?” Oh, Jonathan Saunders (a London designer who made his New York debut on Sunday)? “Yes, I heard it was very good.” Well you can’t do it all, I said. “Yes, exactly!” she replied with a laugh.

AMY ADAMS, MEET ANNA WINTOUR

Further down the Proenza Schouler front row we saw Rihanna, Brooke Shields, Dylan McDermott and actress Amy Adams (star of Enchanted and Charlie Wilson’s War), who was seated directly across from the Vogue contingent. Adams’ handler brought her over to meet Anna Wintour, who graciously shook the actress’s hand and made small talk for several minutes while the cameras flashed around them. It was like watching someone have an audience with the Pope. Later, I approached Adams to ask what brought her to the Proenza show (aside from the lack of work due to the writer’s strike, that is). “I am a big fan of theirs,” answered Adams, who was wearing a copper sequined Proenza dress. “I like their take on femininity. Their detailing is exquisite and they take classic silhouettes and give them a little bit of funk, which I love.” Cool. And was this her first time at a Proenza show? “It is my first Proenza show,” she said. “In fact, this is my first show all week.” Not mine. And there are plenty more to come, ladies, so stick around!

Click HERE For Day Four Fashion Photo Slideshow

So, what did you guys do Sunday? While the rest of America geared up for the Super Bowl, I skipped the layered cheese dip and headed out to the Super Bowl of Fashion to take in the fall 2008 shows of Lela Rose, DKNY, Tracy Reese, Diane von Furstenberg and Y-3. I was also scheduled to attend Hervé Leger, Preen, Jonathan Saunders, Shipley & Halmos and Miss Sixty, but there are only so many hours in a day - and some of them must be spent writing these entries, reviewing for Vogue.com and, oh yeah, eating and sleeping. Here’s what went down in and around the tents.

A SCENTSATIONAL THREEASFOUR

I forgot to mention this yesterday, but I had noticed Saturday’s ThreeAsFour show at the Altman Building in Chelsea smelled divine. I did a little digging and found out that the avant trio (Gabi, Adi and Ange) scented the show by having their pals at Aedes de Venustas - a sybaritic fragrance store on Christopher Street - pipe in Iris Pallida by L’Artisan Parfumeur. “We chose Iris Pallida at the event for its ethereal presence,” Aedes’ co-owner Karl told me post-show. “The scent of iris is one of the most complex and elusive, giving the show something mysterious. Also, iris is one of the favorite essences of Adi and Ange and was a main ingredient in the limited edition (now sold out) Threeasfour Eau de Perfume for Colette in Paris.” If only more people would do this...

AROUND THE WORLD IN 43 DRESSES

Diane von Furstenberg’s heroine this season is a peripatetic little vixen who, according to the show’s program notes “always knew she would find her way through the rain drops...the mystery, the unknown, the infinite possibilities of a foreign affair.” Whatever. With her thematic locale shifting from Berlin to Shanghai to New York City - and styles that reflected each place (from mannish tweed topcoats belted over chiffon dresses to Suzie Wong-style cheongsams to glittery Rainbow Room-inspired cocktail frocks) DVF took her audience on a whirlwind, and very stylish, trip - all in under 15 minutes.

THE FOUR SEASONS

At Tracy Reese, meanwhile, Mother Nature was the muse in a collection that played upon the elements - earth, fire, air and water - via chunky sand-hued sweaters, grass green or blooming floral dresses, swirly oceanic-printed skirts and tulle covered copper pieces that made me think of the twinkling stars in a vast night sky. Nicely done, Ms. Reese.

HOW TO PISS OFF A REALITY TV STAR IN 3 EASY STEPS

1. Invite a reality TV star to your fashion show (their first) and promise them a seat in the front row.

2.Hire publicists who are slow to respond when said star stands up to pose for the paparazzi (presumably the reason you’ve invited them in the first place) and someone steals their seat and refuses to budge.

3. After 10 minutes of high drama, during which security guards try to boot the reality stars off the runway so the presentation can start (instead of ejecting the interloper), finally secure an extra chair and stick it at end of the row, so your guest can sit back down and enjoy the show.

This is exactly what happened to Vanessa and Angela Simmons of the MTV show, “Run’s House” at Tracy Reese on Sunday. Not nicely done, Ms. Reese (though, obviously, the designer herself was backstage and had no idea what was happening). Still, this incident, coupled with the grumbling we heard post-show from several major buyers and editors who were also unhappy with their seating situation, seems to indicate that someone in Reese’s House is not getting the job done.

THE STARS COME OUT AT DVF

Stars of a different magnitude came out in force to support DVF and her motley front row crew included Rachel Zoe, Ellen Barkin, Susan Sarandon, Lee Radziwill, Fran Lebowitz, Fiat heir Lapo Elkann (he of the leonine red mane), Amy Smart, Molly Sims, Rose McGowan, Waris Ahluwalia, Chaira Clemente,Carine Roitfeld, Andre Leon Talley, Simon Doonan and Anna Wintour, who spent the better part of the pre-show wait time in deep conversation with Charlie Rose.

COOLEST SHOW, COOLEST SWAG

Yohji Yamamoto presented the coolest collection - literally - showing his Adidas Y-3 line in a specially constructed igloo (I kid you not) at Pier 40 on the Hudson River. Accessed by a long, dark tunnel illuminated by tiny spotlights (not so great if you happened to be wearing sky high platform boots, as I - and about a million other female guests - were doing), the show’s backdrop consisted of 12-foot-high walls of backlit ice that curved through the Pier’s underground space. Metal bleachers had been erected in front of the wall, and each seat came complete with a plush ivory stadium blanket emblazoned with the Y-3 logo, which was instantly put to use by most in attendance - as were the foil-wrapped hand warmers that were given out upon arrival at the unheated space. Who needs the Super Bowl when you’ve got Yohji? Give me a Y! Give me an O!

A MINUTE WITH MARISKA

I got to chatting with Law & Order:SVU star Mariksa Hargitay while waiting for the Lela Rose show to start (you know how you do), and let me tell you, she is one nice lady. We discussed Lela, of course, about whom she said (take a deep breath before reading): “I love fashion. But I sometimes think, oh, is that too dressy? Or is that too much applique for day-to-night, what do I wear from the night to the day? Oh, God (she rolled her eyes). I just think there’s so many decisions and I also, being a new mom, just don’t have the time to think about fashion as much as I maybe used to and not that I don’t care but I just have other things on my brain now. So I have to think less with Lela cause she does it for me. Her clothes are really feminine, really girly but wearable. Whatever I throw on from her, everything sort of works together. I mean, I’ve tried on tweed pants from her that are cut so spectacularly and groovy and they’re low waisted and the belts are great - look at this (she hiked up her shirt to reveal a thick waistband with button tabs). I just love the details and the ladylikeness. It can also be worn for business. It’s appropriate anywhere and fashionable and very chic in an understated way, I think is what I’m trying to say. I wear Lela a lot to a lot of events. You know how it is, you find designers that work for you body. My body is Lela, Vera and Carolina. Those are the no-brainers for me. I have a really curvy body so I need that kind of support!” She also told me that she’s busier now than she was before the writer’s strike, preparing for the official launch party of her foundation, Joyful Heart, which offers retreat programs for victims of sexual assault. “It’s really sort of my foundations’ coming-out party,” she told me. “So that has been a lot of work. And assembling the board - I don’t know if you’re on the board of charities but working with the board is almost as much work as the actual work. You know, it’s a lot of people to balance and A-type personalities and everybody wants to contribute so that’s really taking off. And then my son is 19 months so we’re trying to get into schools and I have meeting with schools every day and I’ve had photo shoots and a lot of projects.” Hmmm...juggling a career, family, community work. Stars. They really are just like us!

Click HERE For Day Two Fashion Photo Slideshow

LUST HAVE

 

Today's lust have came from Tom Scott, my favorite knitwear designer (I collect Scott's pieces the way other people collect shoes). Scott's latest outing was based on the idea of movement, play and dress-up with a whimsical, naughty secretary vibe (think: oversized pullovers, slip-bearing pencil skirts and one ingenious little item that can be worn as a sweater or a tube skirt). I was instantly smitten with a Lurex trim sweater worn with a double-layer kangaroo pocket skirt, and an ivory cutaway cardigan with a hand crocheted "hair" collar held in place with a gigantic safety pin. Oh, and there was a navy chiffon-edged cardigan that was pretty damn sweet, too (of course, the inventive presentation, which utilized both models and headless, legless mannequins suspended from the ceiling in an installation designed by London architect Ab Rogers, made everything look fab). And then there was that seriously sexy trench coat fashioned from black oilcloth with a curvy cutout over layer at ThreeAsFour. Decisions, decisions...

THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT

This being Saturday, many fashion folk brought along their offspring to shows (hey, even the nanny needs a day off). I saw two little boys laying beneath the ceiling-hung mannequins at Tom Scott, there were two tweenagers besides themselves with joy upon spotting "America's Next Top Model" photographer Nigel Barker (who graciously posed for photos with the giggling girls), and Vogue fashion features director and mother of three Sally Singer who brought two of her tousled-haired sons to the Costello Taliapietra show, the youngest of whom napped in mom's lap for the duration.

AMERICA'S NEXT TOP WHAT?

Speaking of Nigel Barker, you guys will love this. I had taken my seat at Sass & Bide, the last show of the day, and was watching the little girls sitting next to me run back and forth across the aisle to get shots of Nicky Hilton and Niki Taylor, both of whom were seated across from us in the front row. Then a clipboard girl (aka, PR person) appeared out of nowhere and moved one of the girls to the second row - much to her father's annoyance - so she could seat an arriving guest. "Oh, nice going, kicking an innocent child out of her seat!" I joked to the (very cute) guy who sat down beside me. "I know, I feel terrible, but I had nothing to do with it!" he replied with a grin. Suddenly, a swarm of people (ok, young women) approached him and asked to have their picture taken with him. Huh? Then, the two little girls came back from their junior paparazzi mission and instead of being upset that this guy had usurped one of their seats, began squealing like, uh, 10-year-old school kids (which they were) and demanded that their dad take their picture with the guy, too. Double huh? "OK, I'm sorry but I have to ask," I said when he sat back down. "Who are you?" "Nigel Barker," he grinned. "And...?" I said. "And that's all there is to it," he replied. When it became clear from the blank look on my face that I still had no idea who he was (meaning, why he was being surrounded by drooling members of the fairer sex), he added, "I'm a fashion photographer. On 'America's Next Top Model.'" Ohhhh, sor-ry.

TYRA VS. NIKI: A SUPERMODEL SMACKDOWN

Since Nigel and I were now on a first-name basis, and Niki Taylor (the ost of Bravo's new show, "Make Me a Supermodel") was sitting directly across from us, I asked Barker who would win in a fight, him or Taylor. "I don't know," he replied. "Look at Niki's heels! I wouldn't want to get on the wrong side of them." And between Niki and Tyra? "I definitely think Tyra can hold her own, for sure," he laughed. So is he worried about the competition from the new show? "No, we've got 10 seasons under our belt, they've got one," he said, nodding in Niki's direction. "Come on. I think we should be flattered that they're trying to imitate us. Good luck with that!"

NAME TO KNOW: JUAN CARLOS OBANDO

*Juan Carlos Obando Invite. "The superhero is the inspiration, not the execution," said designer Juan Carlos Obando of the collection he unveiled in a whitewashed Garment District loft Saturday afternoon, which heralded his New York debut (he's been showing in LA for four years). Dubbed "Case Study N.8: Liz Goldwyn vs. Frank Miller," Obando paid homage to Goldwyn, his favorite client/muse, and to classic graphic novels - Superman, Batman, the Green Lantern, Daredevil, the Joker - in an incredibly light handed way. To wit: Elasticwoman was represented by a one shoulder nude and black bias cut gown (BAM!), Spiderman appeared as a hand-knit scorched lace minidress "webbed" with rubberized black pvc sequins (POW!), and Batman was suggested by an ice blue cape back gown with 3/4 split sleeves (ZAP!). So when you're designing, which comes first, I asked Obando, the chicken or the egg (e.g., does the fabric dictate the design or does the design dictate the fabric)? "I think it's one big dinosaur that throws up a chicken and egg together," laughed the impish designer, gesturing toward his Aquaman look. "That's kind of the way it is. This fabric is the right fabric for this theory, for this dress, for this shape. It's more of an old-school, intellectual approach - like Alaia." And lest you think young JC (who is all of 30) is being self-aggrandizing, check out the collection - which he made entirely himself, by hand - for yourself. "It's been a long road [to New York] but I was ready," he added. "I want people to judge my work for what it is. I don't want to be an
overnight success. I want to be the beautiful story that you really want to tell that is more sentimental. It's not all this hype. Those who love it, love it. And those who don't love it," he shrugged, "it's ok." We can't image who those people would be, JC.

INVITE OF THE DAY

OK, so I know I just got done singing the praises of JC Obando's collection, but his invitation deserves a little shout-out, too. Who else would announce his presentation by way of a limited-edition, Frank Miller-style graphic cartoon poster depicting his muse, Liz Goldwyn, doing battle with a villain and emerging victorious. Look, up in the sky: It's a bird! It's a plane! It's SuperLiz!

CELEBS TO THE LEFT OF ME, CELEBS TO THE RIGHT OF ME

Sass & Bide wasn't the only celebfest in town. At Costello Tagliapietra, MisShapes DJ Leigh Lezark was seated directly across the aisle from me and spent her pre-show time alternately checking her Blackberry and posing for photogs, while a surprisingly beefy Sean Lennon, wearing a neon pink polo shirt, chatted with his model irlfriend Kemp Muhl while we waited for the ThreeAsFour show to begin.

 

SMELLS LIKE TEAM SPIRIT

Costello Tagliapietra duo Jeffrey Costello and Robert Taliapietra sent guests home with a great souvenir: a limited edition balsam/cedar/sage-scented candle made in collaboration with Le Cherche Midi. The CT candle came packaged in a recycled wood box lined with the designers' signature chocolate brown jersey fabric. Heavenly!

MOST MOVING MOMENT

Back in the tents after a one-season absence, Aussie designers Sass & Bide (aka, Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton) dedicated their show, "Rainbows for Kate" to a good friend of Heidi's who lost her battle with breast cancer (the name comes from a colorful beaded bracelet Heidi made Kate while the two were undergoing treatment together). The show was, by turns, melancholy and uplifting, with
clothing that segued from somber black to, yes, rainbow bright. "Even though it was a tribute it was meant to be really fun and happy and a celebration of life," Sarah-Jane told me post-show. And the music - from the opening strains of "Desperado" to the lovely acoustic version of "Somewhere Over the Rainbow" that played during the finale - really set the mood.

ART ATTACK

Walking home from Costello Tagliapetra Saturday afternoon, I spied a fluorescent orange bike chained to a street sign, and assumed it was either a guerilla art installation or belonged to some crazy messenger (not sure if you've heard, but we have those here in Noo Yawk). Then, on the way from ThreeAsFour in Chelsea to Sass & Bide in the tents, Patrick Butler (the wonderful photographer who's responsible for most of the photos you see here) and I were stopped dead in our tracks by the site of a red phone booth - the type you see in London - lying on
the ground with an axe in its side (poor thing). Later, outside of Bryant Park, I spotted yet another neon orange bike locked to a pole. What the...?! Further investigation revealed a silver DKNY logo on the bike's frame. Mmmm...fashion, art and commerce. Three great tastes that taste great together!

Click HERE For Day Two Fashion Photo Slideshow

Click HERE For Day One Fashion Photo Slideshow

YOU KNOW IT'S OFFICIAL WHEN YOU SPOT ANNA WINTOUR

In theory, the honor goes to designer Yeohlee Teng, who presented her fall 2008 collection at the Toby Devan Lewis Sky Room in the just-opened New Museum of Contemporary on the Bowery. Where better to showcase Yeohlee's Shaker-and-architecture themed Fall 2008 collection, which was inspired, in part, by the museum itself? It seemed the perfect marriage between art and fashion - and I love the whimsical “Hell Yes!” rainbow sign on the outside of the building that greets visitors from blocks away. Unfortunately, the small top floor space was accessible only by a single freight sized elevator, which continued to open and close throughout the presentation, its shiny apple green interior a blinding distraction from the rather somber clothing on display. “Yeohlee, you’re killing me with these venues...” muttered one major critic as we fought to get on - and off - the elevator. I’d have to agree.

Click Here For Day One Fashion Photo Slideshow